Easter

I spent a solo Easter Sunday this year, which was fine by me. Setting off to seek trees, grass, and sun I noticed that my street seemed extra quiet. I chalked it up to Easter, and figured the city would be relatively still. Some small shops on my way to Wenceslas Square were closed, but one of the main groceries was still open and I was able to pick up some snacks for my day.

When I hit the square, though, I realized that Easter would not prevent Praguers from passing the day out and about, or tourists from crowding for the (admittedly underwhelming) hourly performance of the astronomical clock. I was surprised that the Easter market was still open as well. Shouldn't it close by Easter?

Then I remembered that Czech Republic is one of the least religious countries. My maybe silly ideas of families gathering for an indoor rest from sidewalks and shopping started to dissolve. Perhaps it was the overwhelming, several-weeks-long presence of the Easter market that spans from the bottom of Wenceslas Square to Old Town Square. Perhaps it was the displays of foil-wrapped chocolate bunnies that dominate supermarket shopfronts (reminding me of home). Prague had me convinced that Easter was a bigger deal. Either way, it was more relaxed than I'd imagined.

Maybe the Czechs embrace Easter Monday more than they do Easter itself, practicing a Pagan tradition. Many of the market vendors sell wand-like whips, made of branches braided together and ending in an explosion of colorful streamers. Men are supposed to buy these, then chase and whip women on Easter Monday. For fertility, they say. The vendors also sell pretty painted eggs. Women are supposed to buy these as rewards for the men that whip them. An alternative gift from the women is a shot of alcohol (Becherovka, Czech Republic's national liquor or something, I am assuming). Also, women can splash the offenders with water. (This option seems most fair to me.)

Though this stuff was being sold everywhere in Prague, our professors assured us that we wouldn't be chased with these whip-wands by Czech men down Wenceslas Square. However, these traditions are still, apparently, in practice in smaller towns and villages. Though we did get out of the city to a smaller town for Easter, we visited Lidice, which was not exactly the spot for this merry flagellation and retaliation.

And while the feminist (?) in me gives a great big roll of the eyes to this tradition, I admit I'm disappointed that I didn't get to witness it in action. But at least I spared myself some mild pain and some crowns.