Terezín

This past Sunday I was lucky enough to snag a last minute spot on a group trip to Terezín. Terezín was built as a fortress in 1780. It held Franz Ferdinand's assassin, Gavrilo Prinzip, earlier in the 20th century. In the World War II period, it served as a concentration camp, while its Small Fortress was a work camp for prisoners of war. The concentration camp was not an execution camp, however tens of thousands died there from the terrible conditions. Hundreds of thousands passed through Terezín, and relatively few survived. The guide for the Jewish Studies group from my program had not only survived Terezín but had escaped Auschwitz four times. I only got to hear him speak on the bus rides there and back, but it was awe-inspiring just to be in his presence for a bit, really.

Terezín's role in the Nazi campaign and propaganda is particularly fascinating. It was essentially known as the town that Hitler 'gave' to the Jews. Cultural figures--actors, artists, musicians, etc.--were kept in Terezín to create the appearance of a community creating and thriving. When the International Red Cross caught wind that Terezín might not actually be so swell, they scheduled a visit. The Nazis pulled the wool over the eyes of the Red Cross by spiffing up some buildings, scripting some Nazi-Jew encounters, and making Terezín appear much better cared for and quaint by driving around in circles. It is really astonishing how much the Nazis were able to get away with--convincing international authorities that hundreds, rather than tens of thousands, were absolutely walled in.

In a way, Terezín was quite desolately beautiful. The green-brown grass glowed against the grey of the sky and the red of the endless walls. It was difficult to imagine the atrocities committed there, and the terror that circulated through the brick corridors constantly. And, really, such a short time ago.